‘Chappal chor’ Prada admits Kolhapuri ‘influence’ in Rs 1.2-lakh sandals
The sandals are reportedly priced at Rs 1.1-1.2 lakh per pair, with no acknowledgment or compensation to the original artisans; latter mull legal step
Prada, the Italian high-end fashion brand, has confirmed that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line incorporated designs influenced by Kolhapuri chappals, addressing the controversy that caused significant displeasure in India and sparked discussions about cultural appropriation.
The leather sandal with open toes presented by Prada shows striking similarities to the heritage leather footwear that artisans have crafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
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No credit to Indian artisans
In its show notes, Prada had described the footwear as “leather sandals”, with no reference to an Indian connection, evoking outrage from many in India’s fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals in western Maharashtra.
Prada's summer collection, described as whimsical and futuristic, has drawn criticism not just for its exclusivity, but also for what many see as blatant cultural appropriation.
The sandals are reportedly priced at Rs 1.1-1.2 lakh per pair (approximately €1,200), with no acknowledgment or compensation to the original artisans.
Artisans demand action
Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted leather sandals that originated in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, date back to the 12th century and were awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019 by the Indian government.
Local manufacturers have taken strong exception to Prada’s recently showcased Men’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, alleging that the featured sandals bear a striking resemblance to the traditional Kolhapuri chappals.
The controversy has sparked outrage among the artisan community in Kolhapur. A delegation of chappal manufacturers met Maharashtra Deputy Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis on Thursday to express their concern.
They urged the state government to escalate the issue to the Centre, accusing Prada of replicating the indigenous craft without acknowledgment or benefit to local craftsmen.
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'Chappal chor'
Meanwhile, Maharashtra’s state-run leather body is considering legal action over the Kolhapuri chappal GI rights, ET reported.
BJP Rajya Sabha MP Dhananjay Mahadik also said they are in the process of filing a Public Interest Litigation in the Bombay High Court against Prada.
NCP(SP) MLA Rohit Pawar, in a post on social media platform X, stated, This isn’t just copying – it’s cultural theft! If Prada won’t respect our heritage by branding it right, the Maharashtra government must act against such Chappal Chor.”
Prada responds
Following massive social media criticism and official pressure regarding the failure to credit Indian craftsmen and cultural legacy of the design at the Milan event, the company released a statement saying it celebrates craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions.
“We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, in a letter to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture.
Responding to a query by ET, the organisation emphasised its dedication to celebrating artisanal expertise, legacy and design customs.
The company said: "Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities. We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry & Agriculture on this topic."
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Legal loopholes
The Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which shares GI certification for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is reportedly considering legal measures.
Although LIDCOM and LIDKAR are the registered proprietors of the Kolhapuri chappal GI and authorised users can initiate legal action within India, cross-border protection for GI tags remains unavailable under current Indian law.
Legal experts note that while India’s GI laws safeguard against the unauthorised commercial use of a registered product’s name or implied origin, they do not extend to cases of design imitation alone.
The Kolhapuri chappals received GI designation on December 11, 2018, including eight districts — four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The craft industry's substantial size contrasts with merely 95 artisans registered as authorised GI users.