From Sarafa Bazaar’s midnight chaat trails, Sayaji’s floating breakfasts to 56 flavours in Chappan Dukan, Indore, the mecca of education, has become a food lover’s paradise
Dressed in a white kurta-pyjama, Joshiji sits cross-legged on the floor of his small shop in Sarafa Bazaar, Indore (Madhya Pradesh). With theatrical flair, he tosses a plate of dahi vadas (lentil dumplings in yogurt) into the air, landing them perfectly before sprinkling five different masalas over them — each distinct — like a culinary magician. The tangy, melt-in-the-mouth vadas transport you straight to a burst of flavour you won’t forget.
Joshi Dahi Vada, a humble hole-in-the-wall eatery, has become one of the city’s most iconic food experiences. Indore is widely known as India’s cleanest city — as ranked by the Swachh Survekshan, India’s largest cleanliness survey, for the seventh year in a row — and a growing educational hub. What many may not know is that it’s also a food lover’s paradise, where street food thrives in its most flavourful, inventive forms.
A luxurious stay with a foodie twist
I started my Indore journey with a stay at Sayaji Hotel, the city’s first five-star hotel, founded in 1982 by businessman Late Sajid Dhanani. A floating breakfast in the private plunge pool sets the tone — locals’ favourite breakfast staple like poha with crunchy sev, chopped onions, best enjoyed with hot jalebis on the side. At the hotel’s breakfast buffet, you’ll also find usal (a spicy Maharashtrian sprouts curry) and khasta kachoris (crisp pastries stuffed with a spicy lentil mix).
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The hotel even provides a culinary passport, helping guests track their gourmet adventures across its eight in-house restaurants. This curated experience reflects the diversity of Indore’s food culture, influenced by Rajasthani, Gujarati, and Maharashtrian traditions.
Indore’s food culture is influenced by Rajasthani, Gujarati, and Maharashtrian traditions.
At Sanchi, Sayaji’s pan-Indian restaurant, the food journey continues with a frozen shikanji, ghewar chaat, and dal bafla churma — a Malwa-region variant of the Rajasthani dal baati churma. The bafla dumplings are first boiled and then baked, making them softer and easier to pair with rich, ghee-laced dal.
A visit to Chopstick City, the hotel’s Asian restaurant, offers a refreshing switch — a feast of dim sums, clear soup, and crispy ‘chopsticks noodles’ paired with mapo tofu.
Chappan Dukan: 56 flavours, one street
The food tour is incomplete without a visit to Chappan Dukan — a legendary street food hub with 56 numbered shops. Originally a vegetable market, it was redesigned in 2020 into a clean, smart food zone with its own radio station.
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The deep-fried potato patties stuffed with coconut, ginger, raisins, and nuts, served in leaf bowls with tangy chutney are unmissable. Wash it down with a coconut crush — a refreshing drink made with coconut cream, coconut water, ice, and a hint of sugar.
Chappan Dukan is Indore’s street food hub with 56 numbered shops.
Even in a predominantly vegetarian food culture, Indore surprises with its meaty indulgences — the egg and mutton benjos, buttery buns filled with omelette or spiced meat — at Johnny’s Hot Dog, a local institution. Another alternative are the sigdi dosas — long, cylindrical dosas filled with cheese and local spices — and the ever-popular sabudana vadas.
“Everything comes with a twist in Indore,” says local guide Hrishi Raj. Even pani puri here is an adventure, served with up to ten varieties of flavoured water beyond the usual mint and tamarind.
Sarafa Bazaar: From gold to gastronomy
By day, Sarafa Bazaar sells jewellery; by night, it becomes a buzzing food haven. This century-old market stays open until dawn and is a favorite post-dinner hangout spot for locals.
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The bhutte ka khees at Vijay Chaat House — a savory preparation of grated corn cooked in milk, garnished with coconut and lime is a must-try. For dessert, the oversized gulab jamuns, creamy rabdi, and warm moong dal halwa are a treat for a sweet tooth. And top it all off with the unique petha paan — a clove-sealed treat of gulkand, dry fruits, and green petha (candied ash gourd). Some delicacies, like garadu — crispy, spiced, deep-fried yam — are seasonal and best enjoyed in winter.
Don’t leave without these
Before heading home, stock up on Indore’s signature snacks: Ratlam sev, spicy mixtures, and the city’s pride, Jeeravan masala. These edible souvenirs pair perfectly with a hot cup of tea and are a reminder of the unforgettable flavours of Indore.
