Though the number of Jews living in Kolkata has dwindled over the years, after descendants of early settlers migrated to Israel in 1948, the city today boasts of three synagogues
A city’s multicultural profile mirrors a blending of lifestyles across different communities. Kolkata (formerly Calcutta) is one such. Until 1911, it was the capital of the British Indian Empire, and people from various corners of the country — and even beyond — came to settle here in pursuit of their dreams.
Kolkata’s synagogues stand as proof of the once-thriving Jewish community in the ‘City of Joy’ though the number of people still living here has dwindled greatly over the years. Most progenitors of early settlers migrated to Israel after its creation in 1948.
Today, Kolkata has three synagogues, two of which have been designated as Grade 1 Heritage monuments by the Archaeological Survey of India. There were once five synagogues in the city, but two ceased to function decades ago.
A leaf out of a history’s book
Exploring a synagogue is like leafing through the pages of Kolkata’s colonial history. Nestled at the junction of Brabourne Road and Canning Street in the congested central district stands the beautiful Maghen David Synagogue. Hemmed in by roadside stalls, vehicles of every description from hand-pulled rickshaws, cars, vans to taxis, once you step into the compound through a metal gate, it feels like escaping into a serene island.
It is the legacy of the Baghdadi Jews who arrived in the city as traders in late 17th and early 18th centuries from Syria, Iraq and Iran. Shalom Obadiah Cohen from Aleppo (Syria) is said to be the first Jew to arrive in the city in 1798. He later became the court jeweller of the Nawab of Oudh. Other compatriots followed him, seeking their own fortunes. Situated on the bank of the Hooghly flowing into the Bay of Bengal with its own port, Kolkata was a thriving commercial hub at that time.
As their numbers increased, the Jewish community looked to establish their own prayer hall. At first, a hall was rented from an Armenian, another community who arrived early in Kolkata for trade and did very well indeed. Later in 1826, a house was bought which came to be known as Neveh Shalome (House of Peace). This house was later demolished to re-build into the elegant Maghen David (Shield of David) synagogue by Sir David Ezra, a very wealthy businessman, in memory of his father. It was opened in 1884.
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As the Jewish community expanded, a larger synagogue was built by Joseph Ezra and Ezekiel Judah in 1855-56 which came to be known as Beth El nearby on Pollock Street by Joseph Ezra and Ezekiel Judah in 1855-56. It was rebuilt and enlarged in 1885-86 by Elias Shalome Gubbay. With fine touches of Western influence in the interiors, it featured a large stained-glass window above the entrance, patterned with blue, white, and red flowers.
The tablet dating the establishment of Maghen David synagogue. Photo: Ranjita Biswas
During the war years of the 1940s, Baghdadi Jews as well as many European Jews fleeing Nazi persecution migrated to and found a safe haven in Kolkata. They actively took part in the city’s thriving commercial and cultural activities.
A melding of influences
Maghen David was built by Mackintosh Burn & Co. Modelled after the public buildings of the period, it made generous use of local red brick, leading people to often mistake it for a church and refer to it as Lal Girja (Red Church). This confusion arose because, unusually for a synagogue, a steeple was also added. Reportedly, permission was obtained from the Rabbi of Baghdad before this feature was incorporated.
Its 140-foot-high tower houses a clock imported from London, which still dominates the area’s skyline. Considering the time of its construction, the synagogue was an architectural marvel, complete with electric chandeliers.
The interiors of the synagogue reflect a merging of Middle Eastern influences and Western architectural style. This is because the Baghdadi Jews soon adopted a European lifestyle. So you can see Italian Renaissance style depicted in the elevated ceilings, pinkish-hued Mirzapur stone pillars of India adorned with pediments imported from London. Tall Corinthian columns support the balcony with wrought iron structures that are embossed in gold. The altar is crowned with an Apse (Half Dome) studded with stars. It represents heaven. The large plaque in the middle contains the ‘Ten Commandments.’
The central dome of Maghen David synagogue, with Parokhet curtains in the background. Photo: Ranjita Biswas
The Menorah — multi-branched candelabra, Parokhet — the curtains that separate the spiritual from the material world- a central feature of the Jewish religion, are all there. From the balcony you can see the patterned tiles on the floor that are called Spanish Sephardic. At the centre is the Bimah where the holy Torah is read.
Men and women are, however, not allowed to sit together in a synagogue while praying and so the ground floor was dedicated to the men while the gallery upstairs is where the ladies and children would sit. This is followed to this day when prayers are held.
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Other influences of Jewish heritage still linger on in Kolkata. It has the famous Jewish pastry shop Nahoum & Sons at New Market, the original supermarket of Kolkata. Nahoum Israel Mordecai, a talented confectioner, opened it in 1916. Its last Jewish scion passed away a couple of years ago. But the outlet is as popular as ever with the items still following the same recipes. During Christmas, you can see a queue of people waiting to buy a Nahoum cake.
There is also the Jewish Girl’s School on Park Street. Though the students today are mostly non-Jewish, the name carries on. Most people do not know that there is also a Jewish cemetery at Narkeldanga on the city’ northern fringe. Maghen David and Neveh Shalome share the same compound so one does not have to exit Maghen David to head to Neveh Shalome.
The synagogue opens its doors daily at 10 am and closes at 4 pm except on Saturdays. Lunch hour is between 1 pm to 2 pm when the door remains closed. Entry is free for all but one needs to show an ID card for entry. Videography is not allowed. The synagogues of Kolkata showcase how the city once embraced nationalities from across the world, absorbed some of their influences and stamped its own identity on their cultural ethos.
