The Michelin-starred chef, who has run successful restaurants in London like Jamavar and Kutir, on Zarqash (at The Ritz-Carlton Bengaluru), how it's a tribute to memory, and why food should speak to every sense
The gilded arches of Zarqash shimmer in the soft, warm glow of The Ritz-Carlton Bengaluru’s dining wing, a space that feels at once opulent and inviting, like the private durbars of princely India reimagined through a contemporary lens. Velvet booths curve beneath handcrafted brass installations, Mughal-inspired jaali patterns cast artful shadows, and jewel-toned accents heighten the sense of indulgence.
This is Michelin-starred chef Rohit Ghai’s triumphant homecoming, and a declaration that Bengaluru’s culinary scene is ready for a new level of ambition. “Zarqash is my most personal project yet,” shares the 44-year-old. “It’s a tribute to memory, to the dishes that shaped me growing up, and to India’s incredible culinary heritage. But also to the excitement of pushing boundaries, constantly reinterpreting tradition,” he adds.
The name Zarqash, meaning ‘richly adorned,’ underscores its philosophy in every detail that’s meticulously stitched. It reimagines traditional Indian flavours with sophisticated techniques and world-class ingredients, presenting dishes like a salmon tikka, a lamb shank nihari, and a different take on shami kebab. The Murgh Parda nestles theatrically beneath a delicate crust, opening to saffron-laced steam and tender chicken steeped in aromatic spices.
The Lamb Gola Kebab retains the romance of royal kitchens: intensely flavourful, melt-in-the-mouth, supported by mint and pickled shallots. A thoughtful Kamal Kakdi Haleem elevates lotus stem and millet into comfort food. Each plate is laced with memories but designed to spark new ones. “I love taking something familiar and giving it a twist that makes diners pause and think,” Ghai explains. “That moment of surprise is where emotion comes through.”
From India to London and back again
Born in Madhya Pradesh and raised in Delhi, Ghai studied at the Institute of Hotel Management before moving to London in 2005, a shift that would define the arc of his career. In the UK, he trained under the most exacting environments in Indian fine dining, becoming the culinary force behind Trishna, Gymkhana, Hoppers, and Bombay Bustle.
But it was Jamavar — which earned a Michelin star in under a year — that cemented his reputation as a leading global ambassador for Indian cuisine. “London taught me discipline, excellence, and that Indian food deserves the highest stage,” he says. “I saw how diners were falling in love with our flavours, and the full range of our regional identities.”
“I love taking something familiar and giving it a twist that makes diners pause and think,” says Ghai.
He later launched his own ventures, including award-winning Kutir in Chelsea, and expanded into Dubai and Morocco with acclaimed restaurants such as Rivayat. Despite this international footprint, Ghai remained strongly connected to home. Zarqash marks a long-awaited milestone: an Indian restaurant on Indian soil that captures his global perspective and his roots. “I always knew I’d return home to do something meaningful,” he reflects. “India is where my roots are, and where the future of modern Indian gastronomy is being written.”
‘Food should speak to every sense’
Global chefs often choose Mumbai or Delhi for high-profile restaurant launches. Ghai’s intuitive choice of Bengaluru signals his conviction in the market. “Bengaluru is curious, adventurous, and truly global in its palate,” he says. “The fine-dining audience here appreciates craft, but also warmth and authenticity. That’s exactly the environment where Zarqash belongs.”
He notes the city’s shift from tech hub to cultural powerhouse, with diners who expect nuanced dining rooted in storytelling, sourcing transparency, and world-class presentation. “Indian food is undergoing a renaissance across the world,” he adds. “And cities like Bengaluru are leading that change from within the country.”
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For Ghai, cuisine is sentiment, heritage, and geography. “I want guests to taste a dish and remember something, a grandmother’s kitchen, a festival, a childhood craving,” he says. “But also discover something new that stays with them.” His vegetable Haleem reimagines a family comfort dish with the nutritional pride of millets. Similarly, Crab Khichdi is pleasantly unctuous. Seasonality is non-negotiable; plating and aroma are curated for sensory immersion. “Food should speak to every sense,” says Ghai.
‘India’s culinary vocabulary is huge’
Ghai’s years in Michelin-starred restaurants have shaped his culinary ethic and instinct as a chef. While high-pressure kitchens demanded consistency, finesse, and relentless innovation, they also taught him humility. “In a restaurant like Gymkhana or Trishna, getting things right is everything; one slip and you lose a star,” he remarks. “But those environments also teach you that success depends on teamwork and constant learning.” Today, nurturing young talent is central to his plan. “My team is my extended family. I want them to grow faster than I ever did,” he says. “As Indian chefs, we have a responsibility: we are ambassadors of our culture.”
For Ghai, cuisine is sentiment, heritage, and geography.
Ghai remains deeply invested in regional India, a region he sees as increasingly influential when it comes to food. He cites Delhi and Mumbai as fine dining destinations, but expresses equal admiration for the heritage-rich cuisines of Kolkata and Hyderabad, the purity of Tamil coastal food, and fresh experimentation in Goa. “For too long, Indian cuisine was boxed in stereotypes,” he says. “Now, chefs everywhere are exploring our fermentation traditions, pickling cultures, slow cooking, and community dining. Our culinary vocabulary is huge, and the world is hungry for it.” With Zarqash, Ghai aims to contribute a voice that is confident, modern, and attuned to legacy.
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Despite global acclaim, Ghai remains easy-going and introspective. He unwinds with family, finds joy in music, and remains strongly connected to his roots. Friends and colleagues frequently describe him as meticulous, yet warm, much like the contrasting elements in his cuisine. “What keeps me going is passion,” he says. “As long as I care deeply — about flavour, about storytelling, about people — I know I’m on the right path.”
