Millet revolution: Why one of the world’s oldest grains is back on India’s dining tables

India, which produces 41% of the world’s millets, has not only stepped into a leadership role but has also initiated a cultural and agricultural revival with millet at its centre. Ragi, bajra and jowar have been cultivated here for thousands of years; they formed the bedrock of diets long before rice and wheat became staples. However, as agricultural policies shifted post-Green Revolution, promoting high-yielding varieties of rice and wheat, millets were gradually sidelined. Now, decades later, India is looking back to its roots, quite literally, to address modern crises.

Drought-resistant, mitigates environmental damage

Millet’s story is ancient. These grains have sustained civilizations, part of the dietary habits of many regions across India, where local cuisines shaped recipes for flatbreads, porridge, and various fermented foods. Yet, in the post-Green Revolution era, the push for high-yield crops like rice and wheat, aided by irrigation and chemical fertilisers, led to the gradual marginalisation of millet. Now, though, a combination of shifting priorities and emerging research have given these grains a second act.

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One key driver of millet’s resurgence is health. As Indians confront rising rates of lifestyle diseases like diabetes, hypertension, and obesity, many are rethinking their relationship with food. Millet is a great nutritional source that packs more protein, fibre, vitamins, and minerals than refined grains. Ragi, for instance, is rich in calcium and iron, which makes it an essential component for communities prone to nutrient deficiencies. Jowar and bajra, high in fibre, are useful allies in managing blood sugar levels. But this revival isn’t simply about ticking off a checklist of health benefits; it also concerns food security and the country’s over-reliance on a narrow set of crops.

For years, India’s agricultural sector has been dominated by rice and wheat, thanks in part to government procurement and public distribution systems that incentivise their cultivation. But the environmental toll of this reliance has been profound. Rice, in particular, is a water-guzzler, depleting aquifers in regions that are already water-stressed. In contrast, millet varieties are thrive in arid and semi-arid regions with minimal water and chemical inputs. They are naturally drought-resistant and require fewer resources, making them well-suited to the climatic challenges that farmers are increasingly grappling with. As conversations around sustainability gain momentum, millet offers an agricultural model that could mitigate some of the environmental damage wrought by decades of intensive monoculture.

Rajasthan leads the way

Rajasthan, dotted with deserts, has managed to turn what some would see as limitations into agricultural strengths. The state produces approximately 27% of India’s total millet output, driven by a combination of traditional knowledge and necessity. In Rajasthan, the deep-seated millet culture has survived not merely as a dietary habit but as a strategic adaptation to climate challenges. The arid soil and harsh climate that make other crops falter become a perfect breeding ground for bajra. Millet in Rajasthan is a part of everyday life, from the robust bajra rotis cooked in rural kitchens to festivals that celebrate the harvest season.

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The millet revival, however, is not without hurdles. One major barrier lies in perception. For many Indians, millet still evokes memories of scarcity, a time when these grains were seen as inferior foods, consumed out of necessity rather than choice. Changing these perceptions requires more than marketing; it demands cultural re-education and creative culinary interventions. This is where modern chefs, food entrepreneurs, and even home cooks are stepping in, reimagining millet as versatile and desirable. Upscale restaurants in metros like Delhi, Mumbai, and Bengaluru are serving millet-based risottos, biryanis, and desserts, while community initiatives are organising workshops to teach people how to incorporate these grains into their daily meals.

Equally important is the work being done on the supply chain. Farmers who had transitioned to growing cash crops are now being courted to reconsider millet, not through coercion but through incentives and a newfound market demand. Government programmes, too, have helped boost awareness. Meanwhile, NGOs and cooperatives are working to facilitate fair trade, ensuring that small farmers benefit from this rising interest in millet. However, sustaining this movement will require policy consistency. It’s not enough to champion millet for a season; long-term shifts in procurement policies and subsidies are crucial.

A paradox, one of the trickiest dilemmas

There is also a socioeconomic aspect to the revival of millets. It has historically been a crop of the marginalised — smallholder farmers, indigenous communities, and dryland cultivators who did not have the resources for large-scale irrigation or mechanisation. The renewed attention on these grains has provided a platform to celebrate traditional agricultural knowledge and the communities that have been its custodians. This raises complex questions about ownership and equity: Will these communities, long the stewards of millet, reap the benefits of its newfound popularity? Or will the gains be swallowed up by large agribusinesses capitalising on a trend?

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Moreover, there’s the matter of accessibility. As millet gains traction among the health-conscious urban elite, prices have started to rise, placing these grains out of reach for some of the very communities for whom they have long been staple foods. This paradox is one of the trickiest dilemmas facing food activists and policymakers. For millet to be a genuine part of India’s food security strategy, it must remain affordable and accessible, not just for those who treat it as a wellness trend but for those who rely on it as an essential component of their diet.

Food traditions are not static; they evolve, responding to the needs and realities of each generation. The renewed focus on millet, then, is more than just a dietary change — it is an act of recalibration. It asks us to reconsider what resilience looks like, not just in agriculture but in the choices we make as eaters. Whether millet’s return will reshape India’s food culture in a meaningful, lasting way remains to be seen. But one thing is clear: This is not a fad. It is a multifaceted movement rooted in complex but crucial ideas about nourishment, ecology, and equity. As we confront an era marked by environmental strain and health crises, perhaps the small, unassuming millet has more to teach us than we realised.