Founded in 1988 by Hardev Singh and now run by his sons, Philadelphia’s oldest Indian restaurant continues to feed generations of students from University of Pennsylvania, seeking a familiar taste of India
A block away, the aroma of bhuna gravy (sautéed gravy flavoured with masala), hangs in the air, signalling the approach to New Delhi Indian Restaurant in Philadelphia. The establishment, regarded as the city’s longest-running Indian restaurant, has been spicing this stretch of Chestnut Street for over 30 years.
Founded in 1988 by Hardev Singh (now retired), New Delhi Indian Restaurant is run today by his sons Josh, Rick and Kyle Singh who manage the daily operations. Located near the University of Pennsylvania campus, the restaurant has long drawn Indian students, and some of the regulars rely on takeout rather than dining in.
Popular among students
According to family, Hardev Singh began his journey in New York during the late 1960s, honing his skills as a chef before opening the restaurant in Philadelphia. “In the 1980s, we would get lonely without our family back in India,” said their longtime restaurant manager.
“Hardev Singh, however, had a great deal of family in Philadelphia, so he chose to move here rather than take up work in New York City. It was a remarkably bold step to open a restaurant, yet it proved a fortuitous decision,” he added.
“This city has the largest number of university students in the state of Pennsylvania. We have UPenn, Drexel and Temple, amongst so many other colleges, including medical and art institutions. Since all these colleges had a good number of Indian students, they began coming here in search of a proper Indian meal,” said the manager.
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A taste of India
On the day I visited, the long hall of the restaurant had begun to fill by noon. Many of the customers were headed straight for the buffet, while some waited for takeouts. On weekdays, the $16.95 spread typically includes several vegetarian dishes, a selection of chicken, lamb and seafood preparations, basmati rice, breads, salads and desserts (gulab jamun and kheer).
An array of dals, curries, chutneys, salads, French fries and vegetable samosas fill the steam table. Another budget-friendly draw is the $4 shots, beers and wines by the glass, a deal offered all through the day. For those who prefer to order à la carte, the menu ranges from butter chicken and rogan josh to six varieties of biryani and paneer dishes, along with the usual breads and about six flavours of lassi.
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Although the manager suggested their popular dishes like Tandoori chicken, butter chicken masala, paneer butter masala which were there in the buffet, rather than committing to the full buffet, I ordered the gobi paratha, a wholewheat flatbread filled with spiced cauliflower. It arrived in four sections, generously brushed with butter, accompanied by plain yoghurt which had to be ordered separately.
The substantial portions help explain the restaurant’s appeal among students on limited budgets. A Philadelphian designer who has never visited India sat at a nearby table. She said she was delighted by the buffet spread. “My favourites, so far, are the butter chicken, naan and of course, samosas,” she said. “An Indian friend recommended this place because she used to come here right from when the father was running it and has fond memories of dining here.”
Another regular diner, Sathya Yadav, was with her family on that day. She reminisced, “When I was a student in the 1990s, I ate here once a week. Then work took me all over the country, but two years ago, we moved back to Philly. The first time I walked into New Delhi again, nostalgia hit me instantly. It is not just another restaurant, it is an institution. There are newer and fancier places now, sure, but this is still where I come to indulge myself.”
The manager said this happens quite frequently. “It isn’t unusual to see the children of first-generation students dining here, having come to study in the city themselves. At times, they come with their little kids. For us, it is quietly gratifying.”
Today, other Indian restaurants like Amma’s South Indian Cuisine, Ekta Indian Cuisine and Thanal Indian Tavern operate in the vicinity, unlike the 1980s when this was the only place offering a taste of India to students far from home. Trusting in the consistency of their food, the family expects future generations of Indian students to enjoy it as well.
