Rohit Bal (1961-2024), who has died at the age of 63, helped redefine the very idea of fashion in the country by bridging the gap between traditional wear and global haute couture
The aesthetics of Rohit Bal, one of India’s best-known fashion designers who has passed away at 63, was born out of a deep love for tradition which, coupled with a rebellious flair, made his work unmistakably his own. His creations were immersive, dripping in the vocabulary of opulence — zardosi, resham work, handwoven silks, and velvet often juxtaposed with rich gold filigree or darkly romantic colour palettes. He never shied from maximalism, but he wielded it with the precision of a master.
When Bal, affectionately called ‘Gudda’ by friends and insiders, burst onto the Indian fashion scene in the late 1980s, the industry itself was still finding its footing. Indian couture was heavily influenced by Bollywood, but Bal slowly shifted the discourse. He brought a zany, avant-garde energy that appealed to the eye. His collections — in which he imbued Indian fabrics and embroidery with a fierce contemporary aesthetic — caught the eye of everyone, from traditionalists to the fashionistas.
A glimpse into the early years
Born in Kashmir, Rohit Bal’s foray into the world of fashion began after studying history at St. Stephen’s College in Delhi, followed by a course at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT). He was deeply connected to his roots, which found expression in almost every piece he created. Those iconic, recurring lotus and peacock motifs, rendered in his own surrealist style, were his homage to the valley’s untainted beauty. In his collections, you can hear the rustlings of saffron fields and Chinar leaves. He was a designer who moulded trends around his own creative fervour.
Bal’s first major success came in the early 1990s when he launched his eponymous label and debuted a collection that was unlike anything the Indian fashion world had seen before. With a focus on bridal wear and formal clothing that celebrated the richness of Indian culture, Bal’s designs quickly gained a reputation for being “ethnic chic.” His work resonated with celebrities and the elite. In a relatively short span, his client list came to include the biggest names in Bollywood, international celebrities, and royalty, with celebrities like Amitabh Bachchan, Priyanka Chopra, Lady Gaga, Cindy Crawford and Uma Thurman donning his creations.The mastery with which he designed jackets, sherwanis, saris, and gowns made him the darling of the elite.
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At the peak of his fame, Bal remained grounded, frequently crediting his success to his roots and the artisans he worked with. His flamboyant personality, often as celebrated as his creations, earned him the reputation of a “bad boy” of Indian fashion. However, it never overshadowed his work. On the contrary, it complemented his designs. Bal’s runway shows became spectacles high on creativity and glamour. It was not uncommon to see him punctuate his shows with dramatic flourishes — models walking barefoot, candles lighting the runway, or the designer himself twirling in his famous bandhgala jackets.
His quest for timelessness
Bal recognised that true luxury was not only about the price tag or the exclusivity but also about the experience. His stores, designed with the same meticulous attention to detail as his clothing, offered customers a journey into his world. Unlike many of his contemporaries, Bal believed in slow fashion long before it became a trend. His designs were not meant to be seasonal; they were meant to be timeless, like the heirloom pieces passed down through generations.
By bridging the gap between traditional Indian wear and global haute couture, Bal helped create a new lexicon for luxury in India — proudly indigenous and globally recognised. For him, the essence of luxury lay in the painstaking craft that went into each piece. And through this philosophy, he elevated Indian craftsmanship, giving it a place on the world’s most prestigious runways and fashion capitals.
Bal saw fashion as his medium of storytelling. At a time when Indian designers were largely exploring Western silhouettes and international trends, Bal dared to look inward, drawing inspiration from his heritage. His collections often echoed the artistry of Mughal architecture, the fluid lines of Indian classical art, and the lush colour palette of India’s natural beauty. Embroidered peacocks, lotuses, and roses — each motif was selected with care and precision.
Bal’s use of fabrics like velvet, silk, and brocade was a tribute to India’s craftsmanship, an exploration of their skill in dyeing, embroidery, and weaving. His collaborations with artisans, particularly those skilled in zardozi and hand-block printing, not only brought these crafts into the global spotlight but also infused his work with a sense of timelessness.
He broke the mould
Bal lived the very extravagance he wove into his designs. Friends and colleagues describe him as someone with a rock-star charm, a sharp wit, and an infectious enthusiasm. Known for his infectious laugh, he wasn’t afraid to speak his mind. His candidness often made headlines, but it was a quality that made him all the more endearing. He wasn’t simply catering to an image; he was living his truth out loud, with every collection and every interview.
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His eccentricity was legendary. Tales of Bal throwing impromptu parties or walking barefoot on the ramp are woven into the fabric of Indian fashion lore. His zest for life seemed to pour into his designs. He was unapologetic about who he was — fiercely loyal to friends, emotionally generous, and refreshingly authentic in an industry where every face hides behind several masks.
Bal’s legacy also includes his role in the rise of India’s fashion industry on a global stage. He was among the first to show internationally, paving the way for Indian designers in markets like New York, Paris, and Dubai. By pushing for a uniquely Indian aesthetic that did not conform to Western standards, he helped redefine how Indian fashion was perceived abroad. Today, the success of Indian couture on the global market is a testament to the foundations laid by designers like Bal, who was unafraid to break the mould.
