Whether it’s Kanchipuram silk, Banarasi zari, Baluchari mythological weaves, or contemporary bridal saris with Christian and Buddhist symbols, the good old Indian sari is reinventing itself for a new generation
Fashion’s dialogue with faith is no longer limited to temple bells or liturgical vestments tucked away in cultural memory; it has stepped firmly onto the runways, where spirituality is being treated as an idea to be explored with as much seriousness as colour, texture, or silhouette.
At Paris Haute Couture Week 2024, Vaishali S unveiled Satori, a collection inspired from the Zen Buddhist philosophy, that included saris. The draped and corded saris were textured with symbols of calm and flux, embodying principles of simplicity and transparency while foregrounding the intricate artisanship of Indian handlooms.
In New York, Bibhu Mohapatra turned to pilgrimage for his Fall-Winter 2025 line, evoking the journeys of the faithful to sacred sites. His work was less about literal motifs and more about atmosphere: garments that suggested the rhythms and silences of travel toward a shrine.
Other leading names have taken similar routes: Rahul Mishra has invoked deities and cosmic forces, Gaurav Gupta has drawn on elemental myths, and Amit Aggarwal has experimented with sculptural forms to represent concepts such as shunya or nothingness.
The sari, whether in its traditional nine-yard drape or the modern six-yard form, carries wonder in every fold, pleat, and crease. Reimagined by a new generation of designers, today’s saris combine tradition with contemporary sensibilities. No longer bound by time, both handloom and machine-made versions showcase fresh patterns, styles, materials, and techniques.
The stories of the past are being recast through bold colours, innovative cuts, experimental finishes, and hand-crafted details. Once seen mainly as an elegant costume, the sari today has been redefined — at once a statement of style, a canvas of creativity, and a garment imbued with cultural and spiritual significance.
Drapes with religious symbols
Though it is customary to wear traditional fabrics and hues on devotional as well as festive occasions, the textile industry has consciously innovated and spun age-old sacred sensibilities into new-age expressions. The sari has undergone a remarkable transformation over time with avant-garde designs, palettes, and innovative weaving and embroidery techniques.
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Stitching together an aesthetic story of myths, legends, themes, and imageries — reminiscent of patachitras, the rustic scroll-painting storytellers of rural India — the sari has steadily evolved into a canvas of artistic efflorescence, brought alive by skilled artisans and seamstresses. The latest fascination is the divine drape. “The sari is retracing its roots as a sacred couture infused with religious symbolism, iconography, and linear and figurative drawings. Today’s sari can be a form of wearable meditation for the younger generation, who wear ‘humanity’ as their faith while also transforming cloth into a style statement,” observes fashion designer Anjali Phougat.
Moving beyond the ethnic crimson-or yellow-bordered white sari, or the muted beige, chrome, ochre, and mustard tones, contemporary designers are pushing boundaries with unorthodox ideas and ingenious interpretations.
Popular motifs, real evolution
Adding depth and meaning to her sari collection with signs and symbols, a staunch sari lover can easily embrace the timeless appeal of motifs such as Radha-Krishna, Shiv-Shakti, and the swastika. Borders edged with temple patterns and pallus detailed with panels of religious stories stand apart from the clutter of flashy, superficial designs. “Across the world, fashion enthusiasts and art lovers are seeking a break from the glut of kitsch and the noise of fast fashion that has left the creative landscape gasping for real evolution,” notes Phougat.
A lehenga inspired by half sari. It carries the motif of apostle St. Thomas who came to India from Israel on missionary work to spread Christianity and built the first church here. The outfit retraces the roots of the Syrian Christians on this land.
The frescoes on the walls of pilgrimage sites, depicting mythological scenes and spiritual philosophies, hold whispers of the past. Designers are now using such imagery on saris, woven in satin yarns. The bond between Radha and Krishna is rendered in soft tones, with brushwork evoking the beauty of Vrindavan, while crystal accents shimmer across lustrous silk, creating an almost ethereal glow.
Lord Shiva, or Mahadev, symbolises the balance of masculine and feminine energies. In Phougat’s collection, intricate tantric geometry and sacred symbols merge with vigorous brushstrokes and fine calligraphy of Vedic mantras.
Designer Shilpi Gupta highlights saris adorned with the lotus, meditation bells, pigeons, trishul (trident), cross, Lord Buddha’s image, or Radha-Krishna’s depiction of love in Vrindavan. “A sari can comfortably carry spiritual symbols without diluting their gravity. Sari is an expression of emotions, history, and traditions, all woven together in warp and weft,” she says.
Wedding wows, community bonding
Saris printed with Christian symbols are witnessing a surge in demand during the peak of the wedding season. Thanks to the rise of e-commerce platforms and the online shopping frenzy, would-be brides are booking made-to-order saris featuring motifs such as the holy cross, white doves, and Biblical verses in stylised fonts.
“On your big day, when you walk down the aisle, you want to look your best and feel happy in the most appropriate attire you’ve carefully chosen for yourself. Along with the love, affection, and best wishes showered by your near and dear ones, you’d also like to feel blessed. What more could you ask for than to have divinity on your side on that special day? The images and symbols of reverence speak for themselves,” gushes 25-year-old schoolteacher Jenny Smith, who is soon to be married.
Designer Jebin Johny recalls, “I once did a collection titled Nasrani, which tells the story of Kerala Syrian Catholics. I am a Nasrani (a member of the Saint Thomas Christian community in Kerala) myself, and all my ancestors hail from Israel (Jews) and other adjacent countries.” The collection, which incorporated paintings as well as Catholic symbols, received mixed reviews.
Religious elements and beliefs can be expressed with noble intention through colours, quotes and divine verses on one’s outfits. “During Easter celebrations, we commonly wear white, as it is a symbol of tranquillity, innocence, purity, and a fresh beginning. At Christmas too, many revellers sport spiritual costumes,” he further maintains.
Buddhist symbols, and saris with hijab
Buddhist symbols are increasingly popular as motifs in wedding and festive apparel. Whether worn for marital ceremonies or on Buddha Purnima, which marks the birth, enlightenment, and death of Gautam Buddha, textiles inspired by Buddhist principles are seen as calming and meaningful. Monks say the teachings of Buddhism work as “an elixir for a distressed mind”; they can help restore balance to a troubled mind and life. “Mindfulness, sympathy, and compassion add depth to sari designs, making them a thoughtful gift,” says a curator of an art-and-artefacts store in Kolkata.
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Modest fashion trends have also adapted the sari to be worn with a hijab. Some women drape the sari’s pallu as a head covering, while others prefer tying a separate hijab. Delhi-based PR professional Reshma Hussain says she chooses the latter because it is “more comfortable” and she likes “the way it looks.” Stylists advise securing the sari-hijab pairing with pins and accessories, noting that hijabs are never stitched to the sari. Women commonly wear hijabs at religious sites, as per guidelines, or during festivals such as Eid. “When I travel, I wear a hijab. At home, I often cover my head with a dupatta or sari pallu. At the time of the azaan (call to prayer), we always cover our heads. Women usually pray in private, not in mosques, and modesty is observed by covering the head properly,” Reshma adds.
Designer-entrepreneur Dipti Singh, who runs her sari business from home under the brand name Sanskritii, highlights the appeal of Baluchari and Bishnupuri silk saris, both known for their depictions of mythological scenes. “Baluchari saris with meenakari (an ancient enamelling technique) crafted by skilled weavers are a visual delight. They are in demand for their intricate patterns and handwork,” she says.
Stories from the epics — The Mahabharata, The Ramayana, and The Bhagavad Gita — are often woven into these saris, making them distinctive pieces that stand out at any occasion. Many saris also feature traditional crafts such as bawan buti (52 motifs), Madhubani paintings from Bihar, as well as kalamkari, phulkari, zari work, and block prints depicting local folklore. Silk remains the dominant fabric, making these designs especially prized among connoisseurs. “Kanchipuram, Banarasi, and Maheshwari silk saris are always in high demand, with customers eager to buy them,” says a salesman at a South Kolkata sari emporium.