Kolhapuri chappal row: PIL in HC against Prada for 'unauthorised use'

A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) has been filed in the Bombay High Court against Italian fashion house Prada for its alleged unauthorised use of the Kolhapuri chappals, and seeks compensation to be paid to Indian artisans for allegedly copying their design.

Prada, in its spring/summer collection, showcased their 'toe-ring sandals', which the petition said are deceptively similar to the Kolhapur chappal. These sandals are priced at Rs 1 lakh per pair. This caused massive outrage on social media.

Also read: ‘Chappal chor’ Prada admits Kolhapuri ‘influence’ in Rs 1.2-lakh sandals

Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted leather sandals that originated in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, date back to the 12th century and were awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2019 by the Indian government.

What plea says

"The Kolhapuri chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra," the plea filed by six Pune-based lawyers said.

The petition has been filed against the Prada Group and various Maharashtra government authorities.

It has sought a direction to Prada from commercialising and using its 'toe-ring sandals' without any authorisation, and for the fashion group to issue a public apology and acknowledge the use of Kolhapuri chappals.

Also read: Prada's Kolhapuri twist: Can global runways do justice to Indian craft?

The plea said the Kolhapuri chappal (slippers) is already protected as a Geographical Indication (GI) under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act.

Seeking inquiry against Prada

"The court shall also order a permanent injunction against Prada's unauthorised GI use and to compensate the artisans' community for reputational and economic damages," the PIL said.

It also sought an inquiry against Prada for violating the rights of GI-registered proprietors and the artisans' community.

By way of interim order, the PIL has sought damages and compensation to be paid to the artisans' community, including a temporary injunction restraining Prada from marketing, selling or exporting their sandals.

No formal apology from Prada

It added that Prada has privately accepted that its collection has been inspired by Indian artisans but has not yet issued any formal apology or compensation to the original artisans.

"The private acknowledgement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism," the PIL said.

The petitioners sought a direction to the authorities to ensure and protect the rights of the community and to grant compensation.

What Prada said

Following massive social media criticism and official pressure regarding the failure to credit Indian craftsmen and cultural legacy of the design at the Milan event, the company released a statement saying it celebrates craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions.

“We deeply recognise the cultural significance of such Indian craftsmanship,” said Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, in a letter to Lalit Gandhi, president of Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture.