Prada's Kolhapuri twist: Can global runways do justice to Indian craft?
Prada’s 2026 show features Kolhapuri chappals, but Indian artisans accuse it of cultural theft. Will global fame finally bring them deserved credit?
The iconic Kolhapuri chappal has taken centre stage at a global fashion event. Italian luxury brand Prada featured a reimagined version of these traditional Indian sandals at its Men's 2026 fashion show. While the move drew praise from fashion critics, many in India, especially artisans from Kolhapur, are calling it out as cultural appropriation.
Fashion world spotlight
Prada’s adaptation of the Kolhapuri chappal was described by critics as “raw, rooted, and drastic chic.” The footwear appeared on the international catwalk, signalling a fusion of Indian tradition with global luxury. This exposure could have been a proud moment for India’s handicrafts sector.
Also read: ‘Chappal chor’ Prada admits Kolhapuri ‘influence’ in Rs 1.2-lakh sandals
But instead of applause back home, the show has ignited anger. The original makers of these chappals, over 20,000 artisans from Kolhapur, feel that their cultural legacy is being exploited. Despite the chappals having a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, they argue that Prada failed to recognise or reward their contribution.
Artisans' voices
The artisans’ concerns go beyond style — they seek respect and fair acknowledgment. One artisan said, “If they sell the chappals, it's not a problem. But Indian handicraft artists should also get credit for it.”
Another artisan highlighted, “Globalising the local brand is good. But when someone from the global market picks up Kolhapuris, we should also get a place all over the world, so people come to know what Kolhapuri is and how we come up with our own brands.”
Some artisans appreciate the global visibility but urge collaboration. “We can give recognition to the particular artisan so they will also get that fame, and at the same time, it is getting globally popular,” said one maker.
The bigger picture
This controversy also raises questions about pricing and accessibility. The artisans pointed out that local Kolhapuris range from Rs 500 to Rs 2,500 depending on leather quality. They worry that luxury branding will make the footwear unaffordable, sidelining the original creators.
“If it is getting into the globalised channel, it will obviously not be affordable. And in that case, our artisans won’t benefit. If they collaborate with those artisans, they will also benefit, and it should also be in a range that we can afford those products,” a consumer added.
As Prada’s chappals grab headlines, the debate continues — will this be a turning point for Indian handicrafts, or just another instance of cultural borrowing without real benefits for the makers?
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