Assam’s oldest jail, a Muslim woman jailer, and the road to reformation

As one approaches Central Jail in Tezpur, Assam, a large yellow signboard greets visitors with bold black letters, marking their arrival at the first jail in the Northeastern state built during the British rule in 1846. A leisurely five-minute walk along a paved lane lined with traditional Assam-type houses leads to a striking brick-red wall, its weathered surface hinting at a rich history. Countless prisoners have served their sentences inside this historic fortress for almost two centuries, each with their own stories and secrets.

The thoroughfare is open to the public, and life appears “normal”. Cars honk as pedestrians do their best to walk along the corners of the lanes to avoid bothering drivers. Intrigue sets in when one glances at the jail building, which has white-painted walls and a red roof, sparking curiosity about what life is like inside. Perhaps it isn't too different, as evidenced by a café located opposite the jail, near the jailer's residence. This one-room café, constructed with bamboo walls, is run by three inmates.

The red wall guarding the jail for ages.

They serve tea with snacks and biscuits. For those feeling hungry, there is French toast, perfectly soaked in beaten eggs and milk but not overly greasy. The tea comes in both milk and non-milk varieties, but without sugar. If a patron desires sweetness, they can request sugar, and the waiter will kindly bring a small bowl of it.

This setting encourages you to strike up a conversation with the man who seems decent and is in his early 30s. He may share the reason for his incarceration, and learning about his "long jail term" might trouble you. You may find yourself wanting to judge him for his crime. He mentions that he does not have a family, which he clarifies by saying that he is unmarried. 

As an inmate tends to the vegetable garden, Nayama Ahmed supervises him.

Currently, around 470 individuals, including undertrials, convicts, and nine women prisoners, reside there under the supervision of an inspiring figure, Nayama Ahmed, a 44-year-old Muslim woman who serves as the jailer. She is the first woman jailer from the Muslim community in the Northeastern region.

The most common question she is asked is, "What does it mean to be a woman jailer?" Those who dig deeper often ask, "What does it mean to be a Muslim woman jailer?" These questions are not without merit. Prisons are no child's play, and in a patriarchal society like ours, crime, criminals, and jails have traditionally been associated with masculinity. At a time when Muslims are facing marginalisation, a notable figure in a position of power from the community elicits attention.

Ahmed remains unfazed by any curiosity, and chooses not to engage in the surrounding politics. With her usual calm demeanor, the official said, “Yes, our society is male-dominated. I am a woman and I belong to the Muslim community. But my hard work and dedication have brought me this far.”

Nayama Ahmed says hard work and dedication have brought her this far.

“I love my work. It is a 24/7 job with very little time for my personal life. Yet, I have always been sincere. Whether the task is small or big, I give my best effort and complete it on time.”

Ahmed recalled that just a few days before she began her role as the jailer of Tezpur's Central Jail in March last year, three undertrials escaped from the highly-secured facility. “It was a challenging time when I took on the position of jailer. To prevent the situation from worsening, I maintained a tight vigil and personally patrolled the entire premises several times a day, including at night. I also had to boost the morale of my colleagues because managing a prison requires teamwork. Soon, the environment improved significantly, and the jail became much more disciplined.”

The changes implemented by her as an administrator have been recognised on several occasions. The most recent acknowledgment was receiving the Karagar Prerona Bota 2024 award in January, presented by the Assam Prison Headquarters in Khanapara, Guwahati. “As a jailer, my role is not only to manage a prison but also to guide inmates toward a better path, so that they can lead respectable lives and contribute to society once they have served their terms. In this effort, we face many difficulties and challenges, and we often have to work twice as hard to fulfill our responsibilities,” the official said.

Assamese morahs, or sitting stools, made with bamboo and plastic, crafted by jail inmates of Tezpur.

“Over the years, the nature of crimes has evolved. In the past, we dealt with theft, robbery, and murder. Now, crimes have become more virtual, involving honeytrapping and trading scams. Nevertheless, our primary goal remains unchanged: to reform the inmates,” she added.

For Ahmed, the jail serves as a centre for reformation and rehabilitation for inmates. It is also like a second home to her as she spends most of her time in the jail. Her official residence is just a two-minute walk from her office. She lives with her two children, studying in seventh and fourth grades.

Dalas, or rice stone separators, and baskets made from bamboo by jail inmates of Tezpur.

Ahmed's husband works as a government official in the Department of Agriculture and is stationed in Morigaon, approximately 110 kilometers from Tezpur, the headquarters of Sonitpur district. Her daily routine is quite consistent. A typical day begins at dawn when she arrives at the jail in the early morning hours to unlock the doors for the prisoners. She also conducts night rounds before the facility is locked, carrying the keys home with her.

“Every evening, I have to do head counts to ensure every inmate is present. I also enquire them about their health and address any other needs,” she explained. Regarding the jail inmates, she mentioned that most are decent individuals who do not cause trouble. However, she laughed as she spoke about two particular men, whom she calls, “the jailbirds”. “These two men just can't stay away from the jail. Every time they are released, they return soon due to various petty crimes. That's why we call them jailbirds.”

During her earlier role as an assistant jailer, Ahmed established a clothing bank for inmates at the jail in 2016. “After the jail was designated as a detention center in 2015, several foreign detainees were brought in. Around 127 foreign detainees, including Myanmarese Rohingyas and suspected Bangladeshi nationals, were housed here. When I saw a Rohingya woman detainee with only one set of clothes and no slippers for her children during the winter, I decided to address this issue. I appealed on social media for warm clothing donations, and we received a positive response from the public,” she recalled.

Explaining the jail's mission, Ahmed stated that it is to provide a minimum standard of living and humane treatment for all inmates. “We are creating opportunities for rehabilitation through vocational, spiritual, and educational activities, enabling inmates to reintegrate as responsible citizens after their release.”

The Assam-type residence of the jailer. The potted flowering plants are its ornaments.

The jail offers vocational training through its various manufacturing units, which include weaving and tailoring, carpentry, bamboo and cane work, and blacksmithing. “All the items made by the inmates are sold in the market, and the inmates receive daily wages. Skilled male inmates earn Rs 75 per day, while unskilled ones receive Rs 55. Skilled female inmates are paid Rs 100, and unskilled females earn Rs 80. The earnings are deposited into their bank accounts,” said Ahmed.

The jail is situated on 30 acres of land, where varieties of ornamental plants and vegetables grow. “Our inmates enjoy growing flowers and vegetables; it serves as a therapeutic activity for them,” said the jailer. There are currently at least 25 students enrolled in adult and formal education classes, with one teacher to assist them. The jail also features a library and a free legal aid cell. “The inmates are happiest when playing cricket, badminton, volleyball, and chess,” said Ahmed.

The jailer has a busy schedule, and to maintain a calm demeanor, Ahmed practices yoga and enjoys cooking delicious meals for her family and friends. “Cooking is therapeutic for me,” she smiled.