How Haveri’s cardamom garlands are tangled in challenges

Manjunath, a cardamom farmer from Karnataka’s Chikkamagaluru has not seen much change in the standard of his over the past four to five.

“Five years ago, I sold cardamom at around ₹3,000 to ₹4,000 per kg. Even today, we sell it at the same price. I grow the crop on about 16 acres of land. While I have been into cardamom farming for decades, frequent crop diseases, excessive rainfall, and rising temperatures have made cardamom farming less and less profitable,” he says.

Even as crop prices have stagnated in Karnataka, agricultural labour has become costlier. It is also hard to find labour making cardamom farming harder.

Cardamom plants require cool, humid climates to thrive. They are ideally grown at altitudes of 600–1,200m above mean sea level in regions where the mean temperature ranges between 15 and 35℃.

What we consume as green cardamom are the dried, ripe fruits of the cardamom plant. The plant itself belongs to the ginger family. Choti elaichi, or small cardamom, is a native plant that grows mainly in the moist evergreen forests of the Western Ghats in Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu.

The spice despite being in high demand is threatened by the challenges of droughts, unseasonal rains and growing pest attacks.

Haveri and cardamom

The crisis of cardamom cultivation in Chikkamagaluru and other regions of Karnataka threatens to deprive Haveri of its identity. While cardamom is not grow in Haveri, for millions of people, the first thing that comes to mind at the mention of Haveri is ‘cardamom’, often referred to as the ‘Queen of Spices’.

If cardamom is not grown in Haveri, what is the connection between the crop and the region?

It is the renowned cardamom garlands, once gifted to India’s first President Dr Rajendra Prasad, that connect the two.

Haveri is renowned for its cardamom trade and garlands made from cardamom, earning the region the tag of ‘City of Cardamom Fragrance’. In fact, there is even a street named ‘Elakki Oni’ (Cardamom Street) in Haveri. In the past, traders would process cardamom here and dry it in their courtyards, filling the entire city with the aroma of cardamom. However, due to the decline in the cardamom trade, the number of traders has significantly reduced, leading to a decrease in the city’s distinctive fragrance.

“It is true that the aroma of cardamom has decreased in Haveri, and there are several reasons for this. Many of the senior traders who used to deal in cardamom in Haveri are no longer around. After their passing, the cardamom trade has also declined. The trade has dropped to about 25% of what it used to be. Only a few people are still involved in cardamom trading, while others have shifted to different jobs and businesses for their livelihood, which has become inevitable,” MS Korishetter tells The Federal.

Earlier, Haveri had designated storage areas for cardamom, and there were wells to soak it before drying and processing it for sale. Because of this, the entire town was once filled with the fragrance of cardamom. Today, Haveri is well known for its cardamom garlands, which have demand both in India and abroad, says Haveri resident MS Korishetter.

Though the cardamom trade in Haveri has declined, the craze for cardamom garlands has held on. In fact, it has increased over the years, with a clientele not just in India but world over. Several families in Haveri are engaged in the art of crafting these garlands, keeping the tradition alive.

Even today, cardamom arrives in Haveri in large quantities. “Every day, around 10 to 15 tonnes of cardamom arrives here. We process and send an equivalent amount to the northern regions of India,” says Mallikarjun Gunjetti, a cardamom trader in Haveri. The Gunjetti family has been in the cardamom business for over 100 years, starting with Mallikarjun’s grandfather.

About three decades ago, Haveri had a flourishing cardamom trade, with over 200 traders. Farmers from regions like Sirsi, Arsikere, Mudigere, and Madikeri used to bring their harvested cardamom to Haveri for sale. There was even a dedicated goods train from Sakleshpur to Haveri, solely for transporting cardamom.

However, over time, farmers in the Malnad region reduced cardamom cultivation and shifted to more profitable crops like coffee and black pepper. As a result, the supply of cardamom to Haveri dwindled, leading to the discontinuation of the train service. Today, most of the cardamom that lands in Haveri comes from Kerala. With reduced supply, many involved in the trade turned to other businesses, bringing the number of traders in Haveri down from 200 to just 15-20.

Processing and grading of cardamom

Earlier, cardamom was mainly cultivated in Sakleshpur and Chikkamagaluru, but it was primarily sold in Haveri. Farmers would bring raw cardamom, which traders would purchase, process, and grade before selling. This process continues even today.

The raw cardamom brought by farmers varies in quality, with differences in size and condition. The cardamom is first sorted into different grades—typically seven to eight quality levels. When raw cardamom is put through a grading machine, it gets categorised into four types. Later, a salt-tech machine separates broken or rejected cardamoms. The final product is then packed in packets of either 1 kg, or 500 gm, or sold in loose packaging, as per the market demand.

Cardamom cost

Cardamom imported from Kerala is priced between ₹2,900 and ₹3,500 per kg. After processing and grading, the price is fixed between ₹3,000 and ₹3,500 per kg, as per quality, according to another trader, Shivabasappa.

Earlier, sulfur was used in processing raw cardamom to enhance its colour. However, in 1998, the Karnataka government banned the use of sulfur, affecting local processing and trade. Consequently, much of the cardamom trade shifted to Kerala. Despite this, Haveri still holds a significant place in the business.

A tradition kept alive

The cardamom garlands have gained immense popularity both in India and abroad. The Usman Saheb Patavegar family in Haveri is particularly well known for making these garlands.

Their ancestors had even sent a cardamom garland from Haveri to India's first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, and first President Dr. Rajendra Prasad. Since then, cardamom garlands from Haveri have been presented to all Presidents, Vice Presidents, and Prime Ministers of India.

The primary ingredient for these garlands is white cardamom. Green cardamom is first treated to turn white, a process that takes about a week. This is done by heating it in special ovens. The garlands are then crafted using beads, silk threads, and golden-coloured decorative elements. The design of each garland is customised based on customer preferences.

Different political parties order garlands in specific colours. BJP members prefer saffron-colored garlands, while Congress and JD(S) opt for different shades. These garlands are also in high demand during Karnataka Rajyotsava celebrations.

The cardamom garlands from Haveri have adorned the necks of prominent Indian and foreign dignitaries. Made with fresh cardamom, silk threads, and beads, these garlands have also found a market in Japan, the UK, and the US.

The price of cardamom garlands depends on the quantity of cardamom used. Prices range from ₹150 to ₹55,000 per garland. The larger the garland, the more time and craftsmanship it requires, affecting the cost. “Many religious institutions regularly order these garlands,” says Patavegar.

In 1996, his mother received the Karnataka Rajyotsava Award from the then chief minister of Karnataka JH Patel government for her contributions to the craft.

During Ganesh Chaturthi, there is a massive demand for cardamom garlands, especially for public celebrations. These garlands are also widely used in government and private events.

Despite the decline in the cardamom trade, Haveri’s cardamom garlands continue to be in high demand.

Karnataka is known for its rich cultural heritage, natural beauty, and historical significance. Just as the state is famous for its temples, wildlife sanctuaries, and traditions, the legacy of cardamom has also added to its unique identity.