How temple jewellery is adding an oomph to bridal fashion

Twenty-six-year-old P. Kausika from Chennai was on a mission to find the perfect golden hip chain for her wedding. After exploring various options, she decided on a handcrafted, temple jewellery design hip chain weighing 40 sovereigns. Despite her mother, Porkodi, suggesting a more modern design, Kausika’s choice was driven by her belief that the traditional temple jewellery would add unmatched elegance to her bridal look.

Kausika is part of a growing new-age brides who are choosing temple jewellery over more contemporary, fancy designs. The appeal of temple jewellery extends beyond celebrities like Deepika Padukone, Janhvi Kapoor, and PV Sindhu, with many young women opting for these antique-style ornaments for their weddings and special occasions.

Many young women are opt for temple jewellery to feel special. 

Temple jewellery, which has long been preferred in south Indian weddings, has gained increasing popularity in recent years. Its elaborate craftsmanship and rich symbolism, often depicting divine figures and mythological themes, make it a unique choice for brides seeking meaningful and auspicious pieces. As demand for these timeless pieces rises, jewellers now offer temple jewellery in varying weights, ranging from five to forty sovereigns, catering to different budgets and preferences.

“I like temple jewellery because it holds a deep-rooted place in Indian tradition,” says Kausika. “It’s a great choice for auspicious occasions and meaningful gifts. The hip chain is the final piece in my collection of bangles, earrings, and haram chain.”

M. Soundarya, an IT professional, took a loan worth Rs 4 lakhs to buy an earring this Akshaya Tritiya in temple jewellery design. When asked about her choice she said, “The earring that I had ordered would be delivered on Akshaya Tritiya and has depiction of godess Lakshmi in lotus. As you wear temple jewellery, remember that you are not just wearing a piece of art but also embracing a rich cultural heritage that has endured through centuries. The earring that I chose tells a story of tradition, devotion, and the enduring beauty of India’s artisanal craftsmanship. I would cherish my jewel forever,” she told The Federal.

Like Kausika and Soundarya, many young women opt for buying temple jewellery to feel special. Experts attribute the resurgence of temple jewellery to its historical significance. This ancient art form dates back to the Chola dynasty (9th to 13th centuries), when it was commissioned to adorn deities in temples. The intricate gold pieces, often embellished with precious stones such as diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and pearls, were crafted using techniques such as lost wax casting, which allowed for intricate designs and fine detailing. The craftsmanship from the Chola era continues to influence modern temple jewellery, which blends traditional methods with contemporary aesthetics.

The Chola rulers, particularly Rajaraja Chola I, were great patrons of the arts and commissioned temple jewellery for sacred purposes. Famous temples like the Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur were adorned with magnificent gold jewellery, which included crowns, necklaces, girdles, and other decorative items. These were often studded with precious gems like diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and pearls.

Jewellery designer Supriya Aggarwal shares that temple jewellery is no longer limited to traditional wear but is also being styled with modern outfits. “The younger generation, especially Gen Z, is interested in wearing ornaments that hold heritage for special occasions," she says.

“Gold pieces that blend traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics are a big hit now. Temple jewellery isn't just for the elite now. It's becoming more accessible to the middle-class. With its intricate craftsmanship, timeless elegance, and rich history, temple jewellery remains a prized possession for brides and fashion enthusiasts alike,” she said.

Jayantilal Challani, president of the Jewellers and Diamond Traders Association, explains that temple jewellery is valued not only for its intricate craftsmanship, but also for its antiquity. “We spend six to eight months designing a single long chain, depicting scenes from famous temples and mythological stories,” he says. “Our classic temple jewellery haram, featuring a depiction of Madurai Meenakshi Amman on a long emerald chain, is a well-known piece. Each piece we create is exclusive, with detailed motifs that cannot be replicated.”

The Chola rulers, particularly Rajaraja Chola I, were great patrons of the arts and commissioned temple jewellery for sacred purposes. 

Challani’s jewellery mart in T Nagar, Chennai, showcases exclusive pieces such as the Ashtalakshmi bindi model haram, which doubles as a hip chain. These pieces are crafted with great care, as the designs must be executed with precision. “Our goldsmiths take great care in creating these pieces, as they cannot go wrong with the features and details. Unlike other fancy jewellery, temple jewellery is bought for its grandeur and legacy,” he adds.

The increasing demand for temple jewellery was also evident during auspicious occasions like Akshaya Tritiya, which was celebrated yesterday. Known as a sacred day believed to bring eternal prosperity, Akshaya Tritiya sees a surge in jewellery sales, with many customers flocking to stores to purchase temple jewellery. This year, jewellers reported a significant increase in orders for temple jewellery.

Unlike minimalist modern styles, temple jewellery is bold, elaborate, and often tells stories from Indian mythology. Motifs of gods, goddesses, and symbols such as gold coins, peacocks, mangoes, and flowers are commonly seen in bangles, armlets, and necklaces. These designs require more gold, making the pieces heavier. Some necklaces can even weigh over 100 grams due to their intricate details.

The hallmark of temple jewellery is its detailed carving technique known as Nakshi, which gives the pieces their signature reddish or antique matte finish. This method requires a great deal of precision and skill, as excessive heat can damage the delicate gold threading. Only a few master goldsmiths, particularly those in South India—such as in Nagercoil, Mylapore, and Coimbatore—are able to preserve this traditional art form.

Given its complexity, temple jewellery tends to be more expensive than plain gold jewellery. The making charges alone can account for up to 30% of the total cost. However, the pieces are often regarded as investments due to their artistic value and timeless appeal.

While temple jewellery was traditionally created for deities, royal families, and Bharatanatyam dancers, it has now found a place in the wardrobes of modern women.

The rising trend has given a new lease of life to traditional goldsmiths like 29-year-old S. Chandrakumar from Nagercoil. After considering quitting his family profession, Chandrakumar joined a jewellery store last year, where he now works exclusively on creating temple jewellery. “The demand is increasing, and it's giving traditional goldsmiths like us a lot of hope,” he says.

Chandrakumar shares that the process of making temple jewellery involves several meticulous steps, from creating designs inspired by temple architecture and motifs to metal casting, embossing, engraving, and stone setting. “We take jewellery designs from the rich iconography found in Indian temples. Common motifs include deities like Lord Ganesha, Lord Krishna, and Goddess Lakshmi, as well as intricate patterns and floral designs. The designs are first conceptualised and sketched to ensure they capture the essence of temple artistry. Traditionally, temple jewellery was crafted for deities and royal families, but now, it's in trend. This demand has revived our craft, and we are getting good pay for our work,” he said.