How ragi and jowar rotis, a village staple, became urban superfood in Telugu states

On Road Number 5 in Indira Nagar, a pair of women sell only jowar rotis in the evenings. Further afield, along Vijayawada’s Auto Nagar Hundred Feet Road, a small eatery called Manjula Pulka & Roti Centre draws customers asking for a mix: two jowar rotis, two ragi, or sometimes just two ragi rotis. And at a nondescript tiffin centre opposite Tirupati Railway Station, famous for its Rayalaseema-style onion chutney, only jowar rotis are made.

Today, in both Telugu states, jowar (sorghum) rotis, ragi rotis, and ragi sangati (coarse porridge balls) have become ubiquitous. These small street carts and larger outlets have proliferated across towns and city corners. But what explains this sudden surge in popularity?

After COVID-19, the lifestyles of middle-class and affluent city dwellers changed drastically. Concerns over blood pressure, diabetes, heart disease, and obesity grew. In the Telugu states, the number of diabetes patients has risen significantly. As a result, people began seeking alternative foods — whole grains, low-carbohydrate diets, decoctions, and, naturally, the culture of rotis made from millet and sorghum gained momentum. 

Foods once considered the sustenance of the poor have now become part of mainstream urban diets. Consequently, demand for jowar, ragi, and bajra rotis has surged. From small pushcarts to larger enterprises, these rotis are now being produced and even sold as ready-to-eat foods. Fifteen years ago, a major industrial house — Nandi Pipes — experimented with selling jowar rotis at just Rs 2 apiece but stopped production for various reasons. In Rayalaseema, the same company had also distributed them from large vans under its CSR initiatives.

Today, many self-employed vendors, often migrants from villages, prepare and sell rotis. Prices range from Rs 10 to Rs 20 per roti. In Guntur, jowar and ragi rotis sell for Rs 10, while in Vijayawada and Hyderabad, they range between Rs 15 and Rs 20. Tribals from Telangana and Andhra Pradesh’s forested and hilly regions migrate to cities to set up roti stalls.

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Telangana’s Banjara communities and agricultural labourers have gained a reputation for making round, visually appealing jowar rotis. Once considered the humble fare of the poor, these rotis now grace the plates of the wealthy and feature in festive and celebratory occasions.

“Once a village food, these rotis have become an urban fashion,” says Laxmi, a Banjara woman from Narsapur. “We ate jowar rotis back home, but here, doctors recommend them. Now, one roti costs Rs 10, and I make 150–200 rotis a day. This helps cover household expenses and my children’s school fees.” Similarly, Tirupathamma, a watchman living in an apartment in Mahbubnagar, sells rotis in the evenings.

City dwellers are taking a shine to the trend, too. Srinivas, an IT professional in Hyderabad, recalls, “Earlier, we would order biryani or fried rice for late-night meals. Now we order boxes of these rotis. They are light, don’t disturb sleep, and help control weight.” Padmavathi, a diabetes patient in Vijayawada, adds, “My doctor advised cutting down rice. Now, my dinner consists of ragi rotis. I feel full longer, and my weight is under control.”

Even weddings have adapted. Organic and millet-based foods are increasingly being served. In cities like Hyderabad, Vijayawada, Visakhapatnam, and Guntur, people actively request ragi and jowar rotis alongside other dishes. “For my son’s wedding, we brought in roti masters from the village. The rotis and chutneys were the highlight — everyone left only after tasting them,” proudly recalls Guntur farmer P. Rambabu. 

Jowar comes in two varieties: white and yellow. Today, yellow jowar is more commonly used. The grains are sun-dried for two days, then ground into flour. Some vendors purchase ready-made flour from shops. Organic outlets have also flourished, with one kilogram of flour costing Rs 40-Rs 60, yielding roughly 30 rotis.

Kishtamma of Krishna Nagar, Hyderabad, has 15 years of experience making jowar rotis. She mixes one kilogram of flour with hot water, lets it rest for over an hour, and then shapes 30-35 gram portions into perfectly round rotis, cooking them on a traditional wood-fired stove. Each roti costs Rs 20, sold without any curry.

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In Vijayawada, Vijayalakshmi of Andhra Go Pushti prepares her rotis from jowar and ragi grown in her own fields. Being organic and traditional, prices are higher: two large jowar rotis with curry cost Rs 80, ragi rotis or sangati cost Rs 100. Yet, customers appreciate the health benefits. Meanwhile, in Guntur, a simpler vendor, Chayamma, sells slightly firmer rotis for just Rs 10 each, cooked on wood-fired stoves and paired with curry at the same price.

According to retired NIN scientist Dinesh G., the nutritional benefits are significant: Jowar roti is high in protein and fibre, supports muscle strength, aids weight loss, is rich in iron and antioxidants, and helps maintain stable blood sugar levels. Ragi roti, on the other hand, is richest in calcium for bone health, contains essential amino acids and fibre, promotes slow digestion, and helps regulate blood sugar.

Jowar helps preserve lean muscle, aiding gradual weight loss. Ragi keeps the stomach full and strengthens bones. Alternating between the two provides a balanced nutritional profile, making both weight management and overall health easier to maintain.

Once cooked over a humble village hearth, these rotis have now found their way to city dining tables, wedding feasts, and organic food stalls. The revival of jowar and ragi rotis reflects a growing awareness that ‘health is wealth’. From the rustic corners of villages to the sophisticated plates of the middle class, these age-old grains are reclaiming their rightful place in modern diets.

Incidentally, India produced approximately 4.03 million tonnes of jowar in the financial year 2023–24, up from 3.81 million tonnes in 2022–23, alongside a slight increase in acreage from 3.54 million to 3.65 million hectares. In stark contrast, ragi production dropped significantly —from 1.69 million tonnes in 2022–23 to 1.39 million tonnes in 2023–24 — mirroring a contraction in cultivated area from 1.16 million to 1.04 million hectares

Karnataka remains the dominant producer of ragi, contributing 62.4% of the national total in 2023–24, followed by Tamil Nadu, Uttarakhand, Maharashtra, and Odisha For jowar, Maharashtra leads — in both production volume and share — but specific output figures by state show that Maharashtra produced 14.04 lakh tonnes, Karnataka 7.06 lakh tonnes, Rajasthan 5.27 lakh tonnes, Tamil Nadu 4.62 lakh tonnes, Andhra Pradesh 2.82 lakh tonnes, and Telangana 1.04 lakh tonnes.

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India remains the world’s largest millet producer, accounting for around 38% of global output — total millet production reached approximately 15.38 million tonnes in FY24, with exports touching 1.46 lakh tonnes valued at about USD 70.9 million. This milestone underscores the growing domestic appetite for these grains (like ragi and jowar) and their rising prominence in urban diets, supported by both health-driven consumer demand and policy initiatives promoting millets.